Simon flobsheim



s. FLORSHEIM.

Corset. Patented Feb. 22,1881.

mrErm s, PHOTO-UTHOGRAFHEH, WASHINGTON. n c,

UNITED STATES PATENT EFIcE.

SIMON FLORSHEIM, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO THOMAS H. BALL, OF SAME PLACE.

CORSET.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 238,100, dated February 22 1881,

Application filed August 12, 1880.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that l', SIMON FLORSHEIM, of Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Corsets, of which the following is a specification.

The object I have in view is such an improvementupon the corset shown in the patent granted November 25, 1879, to Gustav Schilling and myself that while the same will possess all of the ad vantages obtained by the use of the covered and grouped metal spiral springs it will allow an easier and more equal expansion of the entire corset, will adapt itself more per- I 5 fectly to the form of the wearer, and will better supply the popular want, in that it will have means for lacing the corset at the back. The improved corset also includes a better and cheaper method of securing the springs and forming the groups, whereby the elastic sections can be stitched in place on a machine without interfering with the springs, and the elasticity of the sections cannot be injured by the stitching.

Myinvention consists in the peculiar means for accomplishing this object, as fully hereinafter explained, and pointed out by the claims. In the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof, Figure 1 is a view of the corset in 0 position from the front; Fig. 2, a similar view from the rear; Fig. 3, an elevation of a portion of one side of the corset, showing one of the elastic side sections; Fig. 4, a detail view, showing the preferred way of arranging and 3 5 forming the springs of the groups, one side of the covering-cloth being removed; and Fig. 5, a "ertical section through a portion of one of the elastic side sections of the corset.

Like letters denote corresponding parts in 40 all the figures.

The corset is composed of two separable parts, A B, which are secured together at the front, as usual, by studs and loops, and at the back have eyelets for receiving lacings. The

5 central sections, G D, at the sides of the corset, which extend from under the arms down over the hips, instead of being made as usual, are constructed of two layers or thicknesses, c b, of cloth or other material, which thicknesses a b are sewed or woven together a portion of their (ModeL) width, to form horizontal tubes 0, which receive and cover small closelycoiled spiral springs E, of metal. The pieces of cloth from which the sections 0 D are formed are considerably wider than such sections when completed, so that when puckered laterally they will be of the desired width. The tubes 0 are located in the center of the sections, and

do not extend to the edges of the same, as seen in Fig. 4, so that margins cl will be left at the ends of the tubes, which, margins are lapped with the adjoining sections of the corset and stitched thereto. The springs are arranged in groups, as shown, with puckered spaces 6, of cloth, between such groups. The number of springs composing the groups will vary, according to location, so as to give the requisite stiffness and elasticity. Thus, at the top and bottom of the elastic side sections the groups of springs should not be made so stiff as at the waist of the corset. The springs are passed through the tubes 0, which are puckered over the springs to the desired extent. The springs terminate at the ends of the tubes, and are secured to the thicknesses c b 7 5 so as to leave clear margins, d, of unpuckered cloth outside of such springs. This is a great advantage over the construction shown in the patent before referred to, since it enables the elastic sections to be stitched into the corset on a sewing-machine, which caunot be well done when the ends of the spring are secured by the same stitching, since the needle strikes the coils of the spring, and either cuts the springorbreakstheneedle. Herein, also,isone of the peculiar advantages over rubber-cloth. Rubber-cloth, when stitched into a corset, always has more or less of the rubber cords cut off by the needle, and it is thus greatly weakened, while in my corset the elasticity of the sections cannot be affected by the stitching.

The cheapest manner of arranging and securing the groups of springs to secure the above advantages is by making all the groups of each section fromasingle continuous length 5 of metal spiral spring. The springis secured at its upper end by stitches f, passed through the thickness a b at the end of the upper tube 0, and inclosing one or more coils of the spring. The spring is then passed back and forth 10o through the tubes, which are puckered at the same time. After forming one group, the spring extends down between the thicknesses a b to the next group, and so on till the lowest group (or the uppermost group, as the case may be) is finished, when the spring may be cut off, if thereis more than required, and will be secured by stitches f, passed through the thickness to b. The elastic section can then be placed in the corset, the plain margins at being lapped with the edges of the adjoining sections, and secured by lines, g, of machinestitching.

By making the groups otsprin gs of a single piece of coiled wire, passed back and forth through the tubes, and from one group to the other, the groups relieve each other somewhat,

and when one group is subjected to great strain the springs of the adjoining groups are stretched also. In addition, by constructing the spring in this manner, no ends are left to wear through the cloth, as would be the case if separate springs sewed at their ends were used. It would be impracticable to insert separate springs, and sew them in position at the ends of the tubes, and if such springs were used, they would pull away from the fastening-stitches in a short time. The springs can only be stretched to the full width of the cloth composing the side sections, and they will thus be limited in their expansion, so as not to be injured by being stretched too far.

By having the elastic sections in the sides of the corset the corset can adapt itself to differentforms without the use of other elastic sections or gores, and such elastic side sections, by extending the entire length of the corset from under the arms down over the hips, allow the front and back of the corset to expand and contract from these central side points independently of each other and more easily and freely than when a back elastic section is used.

My side elastic sections are made continuous from the top to the bottom of the corset, leaving no open spaces.

The covered metal springs possess great advantages over rubber-cloth for this purpose other than those before mentioned. The rubber-cloth is not nearly so durable, and soon wears out and loses its elasticity at points subjected to the most strain. The rubber-cloth also has equal stiffness throughout, and cannot be regulated to have difierent degrees of elasticityv at different points, and it, further, does not possess that independentelasticity obtained by the groups of springs, each group acting wholly independent of all the other groups. The covered metal springs, also, do not heat and bind the flesh, as does the rubber-cloth.

It is essential, also, that the springs be arranged in groups, since if placed contiguous throughout the elastic sections the corset would be much too heavy and expensive, and such sections would be too stiff at some points and not stiff enough at others.

As a modification of the corset, it could be made continuous at the back without any provision for lacing, or the back could be provided with an elastic section; but I prefer the construction shown, since it enables the wearer to adjust the corset by means of the lacings, so that the elastic sections will always give to the corset an easy and pleasant tension.

WVhat I claim as my invention is 1. In a corset, an elastic section composed of two thicknesses of cloth or other material, a I), having tubes 0, in combination with the spiral metal springs E, inclosed by such tubes, and arranged in groups to regulate the elasticity of the section, such groups being all composed of a single continuous spring passed back and forth through the tubes and secured at its ends, substantially as described and shown.

2. An elastic section or gore composed of material having tubes extending only part way across the same, and plain margins outside of said tubes, and spiral metal springs arranged in groups in such tubes, the springs of the several groups being made continuous, substantially as described.

3. A corset laced at the back and having the elastic side sections, 0 D, extending from under the arms down over the hips, each of such sections being composed of material having puckered tubes extending part way across the same, and plain margins outside of said tubes, and spiral metal springs arranged in groups in such tubes and made continuous, substantially as described and shown.

SIMON FLORSHEIM.

Witnesses:

F. W. KASEIIAGEN, H. A. BAUMANN. 

